The Seasons and Cherries of Fundão, Portugal: A Journey through Nature’s Cycles
Nestled within the fertile heartland of Portugal, the rhythms of life in Fundão have long been attuned to the changing seasons. Spring heralds the arrival of delicate white and pastel pink blossoms, transforming the landscape into a vision that could rival even the famed cherry blossoms of Japan. By June, the cherry harvest is in full swing, filling tables across the country with these succulent crimson gems. Come September, the meticulous pruning of the cherry trees begins, followed by planting in November. By February, as a light dusting of snow likely lingers on the nearby Serra da Estrela mountains, grafting takes center stage as skilled hands eagerly await the fruits of their labor.
In the heart of Portugal’s cherry country, Fundão, cherries are not just a fruit; they are a way of life. This region also serves as a cradle of understated creativity and outdoor adventure. Orchards, flowers, vineyards, oak trees, and chestnut groves carpet the landscape, interspersed with occasional castles, granite farming cottages, and hiking trails. Amidst this natural tapestry, Iberian emerald lizards and salamanders dart about, while falcons, hawks, and eagles soar above, surveying the adrenaline-pumping mountain biking trails and seeking their next meal.
For native Portuguese, the mere mention of Fundão evokes wide-eyed smiles as sweet memories of spring’s finest fruit resurface. Yet for visitors, this region remains largely unexplored. This is a missed opportunity, as the charming city of Fundão, surrounded by the bountiful plains of Cova da Beira, is a rural haven deserving of year-round visits. It becomes an even more compelling destination when combined with a tour of the 12 historic villages in the Beiras region.
Old Town, New Spirit
Fundão, much like other hidden gems in Portugal’s less-visited interior, doesn’t overwhelm with a multitude of tourist attractions or a hectic itinerary. Instead, its compact historic core invites you to slow down, wander through its narrow lanes, and immerse yourself in the ambiance of analogue camera shops, cherry-themed boutiques, and unhurried cafes.
When you’re ready to delve into the local history, which is steeped in Celtic roots, Roman influence, the refuge of Jewish refugees, and the shadow of the Portuguese Inquisition, the Manor House housing the José Monteiro Archaeology Museum provides insights. Several churches and statues along the marked heritage route offer glimpses into the city’s past. Yet, behind this tranquil façade, Fundão’s creative spirit flourishes without ostentation.
Unsurprisingly, much of this revitalization is linked to cherries. Students at the Escola Profissional do Fundão patiently perfect dishes based on cherries, including a Pastel de Nata with a delightful purple hue. The Wild Snow Dog Distillery has mastered the craft of producing award-winning cherry gin. In the city’s small tourism office, you can find cherry-infused liqueurs, beers, teas, soaps, and chocolates, all serving as unique souvenirs.
But there’s more to this city than cherries. As you explore further, you’ll begin to notice the street art that adorns its walls. From traditional depictions of lace on an abandoned building behind the park to contemporary creations like the upcycled wolf sculpture by Portuguese artist Bordalo II near the train station, modern art has found its place in Fundão.
With the introduction of a co-working hub and, most importantly, ample housing to accommodate remote workers—a contrast to the housing crisis in Lisbon—Fundão has transformed into a city that embraces its creative soul.
Cherries in Abundance
Local guide Bruno Fonseca, chuckling over a meal of cherry-topped pork loins at the beloved As Tílias restaurant, admits to having given away kilos and kilos of Fundão cherries. His mission has been to spread the word (and flavor) of Fundão’s most cherished product. This region’s cherries have held the prestigious PGI designation (Protected Geographical Indication) since 1994, meeting strict requirements for size, color, and consistency.
After indulging in a light and tangy cherry tiramisu—June marks the Sabores da Cereja festival, during which many restaurants in Fundão, as well as in Lisbon and Porto, offer cherry-inspired menus—we set off for the village of Alcongosta. Farms are plentiful here, and the area is responsible for nearly half of Portugal’s cherry production.
At Quinta de São Macário, owner Ana Martins welcomed us, her three puppies frolicking at her feet. Her orchards, situated on the slopes of Gardunha, are layered and offer a stunning sight during the spring blossom. While the orchards are private, one of the Rotas da Gardunha trails (Rota da Cerejas—pick up a map from the museum or tourism office) passes through, allowing for a serene, year-round walk among the trees if you haven’t arranged to participate in the harvest.
On this occasion, we weren’t there to admire the views; we were there to pick the ripest fruits from the cherry trees. Carefully placing pairs of cherries in traditional wicker baskets called “cestas de verga,” we stacked high the sweet Saco cherries— a variety native to this region and exclusive to Portugal.
Pausing for a moment, Ana poured small glasses of cherry liquor, offering one to each picker before raising a toast to the harvest. Fortunately for me, I could escape the midday heat by visiting the museum. For the other pickers, it was a race against time before the next storm arrived. An unexpected hailstorm had left its mark on many of the plump cherries the day before.
Lessons and Legacies
Inside the Casa da Cereja, located in a retired primary school, a comprehensive and interactive museum takes visitors on a journey through all things cherry-related. The exhibits cover topics ranging from the world’s most densely cultivated cherry areas to the fruit’s seasonal life cycle and the traditional tools used in the harvest. While most of the information is in Portuguese, the displays of traditional equipment, including baskets, ladders, and farming tools, require little explanation.
After immersing myself in facts and enjoying a video about the village’s annual Cherry Festival—a vibrant event featuring hot air balloons, dance performances, and local producers gathering for a long weekend in June—we left the museum to find our adopted Saco cherry trees.
In Fundão, you have the opportunity to leave a lasting mark on the local landscape by planting or “adopting” a cherry tree. While it may seem symbolic on paper, in reality, it helps to restore the local landscape outside the private orchards. I committed to future duties, such as visiting and harvesting my own fruit, and even when I couldn’t be present, I would still receive an annual box of cherries in the early years.
From Cherries to Castles
Satiated with cherries—both in my stomach and my mind—I journeyed to Castelo Novo for some respite. One of the Aldeias Históricas de Portugal, a collection of weathered and storied villages scattered throughout Central Portugal, Castelo Novo is a hidden gem in Europe.
Perched atop a hill, the Gothic castle overlooks the village, offering expansive views on a clear day. Backed by the serrated slate peaks of Serra da Gardunha, the plains and groves stretch for miles, creating a timeless landscape. A place of historical significance since the country’s inception, the walled village of Castelo Novo has been cherished by various influential figures, from the Order of the Templars and D. Dinis to D. Manuel I, who granted it a royal charter in the 16th century.
Today, the medieval, Manueline, and Baroque architectural styles coexist, intertwining throughout a labyrinth of streets, many of which lead to the Town Square. In this square, where a Romanesque Town Hall stands, one can trace the paths of Knights Templar and (believed to be) Roman roads. As you ascend, you’ll find yourself back at the castle, while other cobblestone streets lined with hydrangeas lead to small studios where the village’s legends are transformed into dolls or to the red-fronted house that once sheltered José Saramago, Portugal’s most renowned writer. The house is now the residence of the village’s resident cat.
The real reason for visiting these villages, however, is to do very little. Find a shaded spot beneath an olive tree, read to the soothing soundtrack of birdsong, and anticipate a delightful dinner served at your boutique accommodations, such as the imagination-inspiring Pedra Nova.
Vineyards in the Hinterland, Traditional Delights
Back in Fundão, cherries once again took the spotlight, this time in a special menu at Restaurante Hermínia. Instead of the usual regional dishes like Porco Preto (black pork), Arroz de Pato (duck rice), or stewed lamb, I opted for the cherry-themed offerings of June.
Over three courses infused with the flavors of cherries, I discovered that octopus paired brilliantly with slow-cooked cherries. Accompanied by Quinta dos Currais’s white wines, which had a delightful hint of pineapple and hailed from the lesser-known wine region of Beira Interior, the meal was a journey through the regional table.
Having visited Fundão in May, August, and now June, the water informed me of the merits of a November visit. “It’s the month of the mushroom festival,” he mentioned, “you’ll learn a lot and eat even more.”
Onward to Historic Villages with Sustainable Transport
Beyond Fundão’s boundaries, the hinterlands of the central region stretch out, featuring a blend of fertile farmland, arid pastures, rugged outcrops, and ancient schist villages. On one side, you’ll encounter the “raia” (border with Spain), while on the other, you’ll find the mountains of the Serra da Estrela. Whichever direction you choose, you’re likely to stumble upon one of the Aldeias Históricas de Portugal—the 12 Historical Villages of Portugal, bound together not just by a marketing tagline, but by their shared and storied histories.
Exploring these villages means delving into elevated lookout castles, delving deeper into the region’s Jewish heritage, and venturing into some of the country’s most remote and densely forested areas. While the more adventurous might embark on a multi-week hike to connect them all, most people prefer to travel by car. The Fundão municipality even offers a sustainable scheme that provides a complimentary electric car for a few days to visit these historic settlements, making transportation a breeze.
In these villages, the pace of life is slow, and that’s precisely the charm. Find a shaded corner under an olive tree, read while birdsong fills the air, and eagerly await a delicious dinner served in your boutique accommodations, such as the inspiring Pedra Nova.
Where to Stay in Fundão and Castelo Novo
Around Fundão and Castelo Novo, you’ll discover a surprisingly diverse array of accommodation options, including family-run boutique offerings. Here are some of my favorite recommendations for a one or two-night stay:
Casa do Castelo: This beautifully restored home, situated directly in the shadow of the old castle, has been lovingly transformed into a boutique hotel with three rooms. The proprietors are not only incredibly kind but have created a dreamy hideaway complete with silence at night, hammocks beneath the olive trees, a relaxing pool, and vintage-style touches in the rooms.
Heritage Luxury: Convento do Seixo Hotel & Spa: This 5-star renovated convent, located just a couple of kilometers from Fundão’s historic center, impressively marries classic elements such as cloisters and facades with modern room features. It offers both an indoor and outdoor pool.
Glamping: Natura Glamping: These domed tent pods in the Serra da Gardunha live up to the glamping promise with excellent views, scenic hot tubs, and fantastic trails nearby.
Family-Friendly: O Alambique de Ouro Spa Hotel: A large and modern resort-style hotel just a short distance from the city center. Still family-owned, it has expanded from a roadside restaurant and now boasts multiple pools, various bars, restaurants, and a significant new spa project.
How to Get to Fundão and Castelo Novo
Reaching Fundão is straightforward via public transportation from Lisbon and even Porto. However, getting around without a car may require a bit more patience.
By train: Fundão is on the Castelo Branco train line, accessible from Lisbon’s Santa Apolonia or Oriente stations via direct Intercity services (approximately 3:30 hours) or regional trains (around 4:20 hours). Traveling from Porto involves changing trains.
Donas is the closest train station to the Cherry Museum (a 40-minute walk), and Castelo Novo’s station is quite a walk away (nearly one hour) from the historical village. Both stations are only served by regional trains.
By bus: Fundão can be reached by long-distance bus from Lisbon Sete Rios (approximately 2:45 hours) and other major cities and towns (such as Guarda, Viseu, and even Porto).
Getting between Fundão and nearby attractions by bus is possible with some advance planning. Buses mainly operate on weekdays and have more limited services during school holidays (Férias Escolares), with some routes operating only once daily. However, by studying the timetables, you can use the connections between Fundão, Castelo Novo, Alcongosta (for the Cherry Museum), and other locations to minimize the need for taxis.
By bike and on foot: Alternatively, consider exploring the region on foot with the walking routes mentioned earlier (avoid the midday heat), or rent bicycles for easy transportation.
By car: Fundão can be reached in about two and a half hours from Lisbon and Porto. Having a car makes it easier to explore the local area. Alternatively, check if the local e-car scheme has availability, as the tourism board offers complimentary electric cars. You can take a train to Fundão and be met with the vehicle, making for a more affordable, convenient, and eco-friendly option.
