Central Bohemia is a region that combines charm and mystery in equal measure. It’s a land brimming with castles, stunning countryside, and deep valleys bordered by dense forests. The allure of Central Bohemia becomes even more enticing when you realize that its administrative center is Prague, one of the world’s premier city-break destinations. However, venture just a short distance from Prague, and you’ll be immersed in a rich tapestry of Czech history and intrigue that should not be overlooked when visiting the capital.
For those who are as fascinated by unique architecture and unusual attractions as I am, the Chapel of Bones is a must-see. Just an hour by train from Prague lies Kutná Hora, an ancient silver mining city perfect for a day trip. Spending an overnight stay allows for visits to nearby Třebešice Castle and the picturesque town of Čáslav, enhancing the experience.
It was on a dark winter’s day that I arrived in Kutná Hora. The sky was filled with dramatic, imposing clouds, setting the perfect stage for my first destination: the Sedlec Ossuary.
Sedlec Ossuary: The Chapel of Bones
Located in the suburbs of the city, beneath the cemetery of the former Sedlec Abbey, the Sedlec Ossuary is one of Europe’s most unique and eerie religious sites. Often referred to as the ‘Church of Bones,’ the name alone gives a hint of the macabre spectacle that awaits. Upon entering, you are greeted by a rather nondescript doorway that leads to a subterranean chapel adorned with human bones.
Approximately 40,000 human skeletons have been artistically arranged to decorate the walls, ceilings, and pillars. This unique type of decoration includes chandeliers, towers, and even coats of arms made entirely from bones. It is an overwhelming sight, even if you are somewhat prepared by the chapel’s ominous nickname.
The centerpiece of this eerie display is the enormous hanging chandelier, which purportedly contains at least one of every bone in the human body—a claim few other light fixtures can boast.
But why is there such a place, you might wonder? To understand that, we need to delve into history, back to the days of medieval Bohemia. Nearly 800 years ago, the Abbot of Sedlec Abbey was sent to Jerusalem by the then King. Upon his return, he brought back a jar of soil from the Holy Land. This ‘Holy Soil’ led to a surge in the desire of people to be buried in this sacred place. As the number of burials increased, the cemetery expanded, and a church was constructed. The basement of this church became the Sedlec Ossuary, a repository for the ever-growing number of bones. In the 19th century, the bones were arranged into the stunning yet macabre designs we see today.
It’s certainly a bizarre sight to behold, but it is believed that the individuals whose bones are displayed wished to rest in the presence of the ‘Holy Soil,’ and here they remain.
The UNESCO St. Barbara’s Cathedral
With a chill in the air and perhaps in my soul, I continued to my next destination: St. Barbara’s Cathedral. Approaching the Cathedral, you pass the grand Jesuit College, with statues of angels and sad faces looming over you. The imposing Cathedral comes into view, adding to the eerie yet fascinating atmosphere of this destination.
St. Barbara’s Cathedral is one of the most renowned Gothic churches in the world. Its magnificence is evident from every angle, both inside and outside. The Cathedral’s construction spans hundreds of years, blending Gothic and Baroque features from its various restorations, all of which earned it a place on the UNESCO World Heritage list.
Inside, you’ll find vaulted ceilings and delightful frescoes depicting the city’s mining history. It’s a true masterpiece, and even for someone like me, who often feels overwhelmed by the number of churches and cathedrals in Europe, this one left me in awe.
What Else to Experience in Kutná Hora?
While Kutná Hora might sound like a place filled with dramatic stories and eerie chapels, the city itself is quite welcoming. Cozy cafes offer cappuccinos and local plum cakes, and the surrounding greenery and trees extend into the broader Bohemian landscape. Exploring the old neighborhoods reveals more of the city’s charm.
The Italian Courtyard, once the Royal Central Mint of Prague until a fire ended its reign, now houses a grand palace, the town hall, and a minting museum. Dating back to the 14th century, it was originally a castle complete with a moat, where the town’s silver was stored. Visitors can explore the museum and the royal chapel, with the latter’s interior being particularly impressive.
Adjacent to St. Barbara’s Cathedral is the Jesuit College, now home to the Central Bohemia Gallery. This gallery features a collection of 20th and 21st-century art. The building’s Early Baroque architecture adds another layer of interest, especially in the halls where frescoes still adorn the ceilings.
However, the true allure of a day trip to Kutná Hora is the opportunity to slow down and escape the bustling crowds of Prague. Smaller regional cities and towns like Kutná Hora offer a more authentic glimpse into the Czech Republic’s history and culture, free from the throngs of tourists that often overwhelm the capital’s attractions.
For those interested in unique architecture and bone-chilling stories, Kutná Hora is a must-visit. If a spa-town escape steeped in history is more your style, consider visiting Karlovy Vary, or explore the lake and castle-adorned regions of South Bohemia for yet another perspective on this diverse country.
Central Bohemia, with its blend of history, architecture, and natural beauty, offers a captivating journey through one of the Czech Republic’s most intriguing regions.
