Savoring the Flavors of Northern Portugal: A Culinary Odyssey from Porto to the Douro Valley”
What do tripe, the world’s most beautiful McDonald’s, and a heart-attack-on-a-plate sandwich have in common? They’re all (somewhat) serious players on Porto’s gastronomic circuit. However, last month, a Michelin Guide milestone was added to the menu, with the epicurean experts hosting their first-ever provincial celebration of Portugal’s culinary scene in the country’s second city.
But, you might be wondering, with an ingredient list like that, why did the tire-turned-taste-testers decide that 2024 would be the year to launch a dedicated guide to Portugal’s gastronomy? Well, you wouldn’t be alone in your curiosity. Like many who visit Portugal, the nation’s dishes and laid-back dining style can lead to misunderstanding.
Affordable is often confused with cheap, simple is repeatedly mistaken for boring, and freshly caught seafood is often shirked in favor of Portugal’s beloved bacalhau, even though cod doesn’t even hail from the country’s near-endless waters. Then, of course, the international reputation of the Pastel de Nata more than overshadows any regional plates.
But for those in the know, this new Michelin recognition of the ever-evolving restaurant scene comes as no shock; they were exalting the nation’s up-and-coming chefs, sustainable practices, and traditional treats long before Portugal became Europe’s new corner of cool.
And while the south shouts loudly about its seafood and cataplanas, and Lisbon lauds over its constant new openings – many of which seem solely to target tourists these days – Porto and the North have kept producing what they always have: consistently great dishes, creative chefs, and quality-led produce – and that’s before we even start talking about those award-winning wines from the nearby Douro Valley.
So, if you’re keen to take a bite of everything piled on Northern Portugal’s provincial table – from traditional staples (read stomach and sardines) to titular tipples and (arguably) the world’s best seafood – here’s a Porto food guide covering which restaurants to reserve and where to stay, plus what to eat, experience and sip, to have the ultimate foodie trip during a long weekend in Porto and the Douro Valley.
Degustation-friendly Digs: Where Foodies Should Stay in Porto
First things first (after getting to Porto, of course), it’s time to check-in. But where should an epicurean base themselves for a self-guided Porto food tour?
Panoramic Plates: The Yeatman Hotel
If you want to slumber in the shadow of a Michelin star-awarded kitchen, you’ve got two choices of deluxe digs. Most central is The Yeatman Hotel, which – thanks to its position in neighboring Gaia (home to the historic Port lodges) rather than Porto proper – boasts cityscape and river vistas that rival Chef Ricardo’s Costas creations in the kitchen. Thankfully, you don’t need to stay here to enjoy the two Michelin-star experience, but for those swoon-worthy views from the pool and luxurious rooms, you’ll have to check-in.
Cuisine on the Coast: Vila Foz Hotel & Spa
Second up is the coastal Vila Foz Hotel & Spa in the laid-back yet upscale suburb of Foz do Douro. Ocean-facing, the renovated 19th-century palace serves up understated luxury, blending original features with Nina Andrade Silva’s bold design choices – especially in the contemporary annex where her mark is left the loudest. With two restaurants led by Arnaldo Azevedo (one Michelin Star), and a tucked-away underground spa for privacy, this is a true bolthole far from the heavy footfall downtown. It’s a gorgeous hotel, but if I stay again, I’ll try to get one of the old palace suites or an upper-floor room in the modern part, as they have better sea views.
Kitchen in Training: The Editory Artist
If you want culinary quarters with a slightly more wallet-friendly price tag, The Editory Artist Porto Hotel & Bistro is an intriguing concept. Part hotel, part culinary school, it’s a slightly more affordable accommodation option in amongst Porto’s food scene.
Vineyard Stays: Quinta do Ventozelo
Or perhaps you’d prefer to base yourself in the Douro Valley instead and opt for a more tranquil break with day visits to Porto? In that case, I highly recommend Quinta do Ventozelo. The gorgeous views across the stacked vineyard terraces from the pool, the fresh-from-the-farm dishes, and the well-renovated farmhouse-style rooms all make this a standout in the region.
Michelin Moments: Porto’s Best Restaurants and Chefs
With seven Michelin star-awarded restaurants (including two kitchens bragging two stars) and six Bib Gourmand designated restaurants, Porto’s food scene punches above its weight compared to the city’s relatively compact size.
These are reservations well worth making in advance of your trip. And while some of the experiences are much more laid-back than others, they all have one thing in common: passionate and creative chefs who are much more focused on the plates than being pretentious. Seafood is also a big focus in Porto, with the bounty of the Atlantic always freshly caught. Having lived in the south for years, I’d assumed we had the best seafood in the Algarve, but after numerous visits to Porto, I think I can now agree with acclaimed Chef Rui Paula’s claim that “Portuguese fish is the best in the world” no matter where in the country you are – and Porto’s food scene might just have the best of it.
Vasco Coelho Santos’ Euskalduna Studio
One of the most exciting, and now up-and-coming chefs in Porto is Vasco Coelho Santos, who operates three restaurants, a bakery, and a fishmonger, the latter being used to source and prepare all the quality seafood used in his restaurants. Having trained in San Sebastian and the Basque Country’s finest establishments and won various rising-star awards, the chef now enjoys a revered status in Porto. His passion for sustainability and sourcing the best quality seafood is particularly impressive, including his work at CIIMAR, a seafood and scientific research centre (ironically) housed in Porto’s cruise terminal.
The stand-out of his trio of restaurants is Euskalduna Studio (one Michelin Star), near Bolhão. A small and intimate space, the majority of seats are at the chef’s table, with a prime view of the kitchen staff and Vasco Coelho Santos himself, preparing a ten-moment menu which focuses on small producers and the highest quality of seafood. He prefers this more intimate and communal setup, especially as he loves to discuss his approach to all aspects of the menu.
A Story of Tapas at the First ‘Zero Waste’ Restaurant in Portugal: Zero
At the mouth of the Douro River, with views from its terrace of the Atlantic Ocean, Zero (one Michelin Star) is run by Chef Miguel Laffan. A true lover of gastronomy, he calls his “Zero Waste” dining a “story of tapas”. Each dish is inspired by the sea and the products available that day, with quality and seasonality being at the forefront of the menu.
The tasting menu is designed to be shared, but while the plates are small, the dishes are sizeable. The idea is not to overdo portions, but still leave diners feeling like they’ve had a true dining experience. Noteworthy, and fittingly, the tasting menu is described as “zero fish” as it’s designed to showcase all other elements that might often be overshadowed by seafood at other dining establishments. The menu starts at €50 per person (but that quickly builds up), with optional wine pairings at €30 per person.
The restaurant operates a lot more sustainably than most, with a vast selection of herbs grown on the rooftop terrace, its own beehives for honey, and a system of water recycling used for the irrigation of the organic garden beds. Also, it is part of the PRIMA Collection, a luxury travel partnership committed to sustainable travel.
Gallo D’Oro: Authentic Italian, Atlantic-Style
Il Gallo D’Oro is the gastronomic flagship of The Cliff Bay, a spectacular five-star hotel in Funchal, which is located on the Portuguese island of Madeira. Under the leadership of Chef Benoît Sinthon (who hails from Lyon, France), Il Gallo D’Oro has maintained its two Michelin Star status for many years now. This restaurant is quite unique as it specializes in Mediterranean cuisine with a Madeiran touch.
The restaurant is beautifully designed, featuring elegant decor with a Mediterranean flair and large windows that provide panoramic views of the Atlantic Ocean. The stunning setting complements the exceptional cuisine offered here. Il Gallo D’Oro is known for its inventive tasting menus, each showcasing the finest ingredients, including fresh seafood, locally sourced produce, and herbs from the restaurant’s garden.
Book a Table at These Other Michelin Restaurants in Portugal
While Porto may be the latest edition to the Portuguese Michelin Guide, Lisbon and other parts of the country have already established a presence on the prestigious culinary map. Here are a few more Michelin-awarded restaurants in Portugal that are worth a visit:
Lisbon
Belcanto by Chef José Avillez – A two-star Michelin restaurant offering modern Portuguese cuisine with a creative twist.
Alma by Chef Henrique Sá Pessoa – A two-star Michelin restaurant that combines Portuguese flavors with modern techniques.
Loco by Chef Alexandre Silva – A one-star Michelin restaurant known for its innovative and experimental cuisine.
Algarve
Vista by Chef João Oliveira – Located in the Algarve, this one-star Michelin restaurant offers stunning sea views and an exquisite tasting menu.
Aveiro
A Cozinha por António Loureiro – In Aveiro, this one-star Michelin restaurant serves innovative dishes with a focus on local ingredients.
Viseu
Mesa de Lemos – Located in the heart of the Dão wine region, this one-star Michelin restaurant offers a farm-to-table dining experience.
Where to Sample Portugal’s Best Fish in Porto
For centuries, the ‘Tripeiros’ have carried their unique nickname – and it’s all down to stomachs. From early days, when meat was a luxury to be rationed, locals – even as far back as the Middle Ages – made sure they never wasted any part of their prized cattle. Even so, during a 19th-century famine, Porto’s people kept up their tripe feasts.
For those on a budget and in search of authenticity, nothing beats the authenticity of the Portuguese dishes enjoyed by the locals and the best of the Michelin restaurants. All of these restaurants have their special features, making them unique and worthy of your visit.
The Michelin Guide is a great resource for finding high-quality dining options, but don’t forget to explore local eateries, markets, and street food stalls to fully immerse yourself in Porto’s culinary culture. From traditional dishes like “Francesinha” to fresh seafood, Porto has a wide range of flavors to offer. Enjoy your culinary journey in Porto and the Douro Valley!
